SPOTTING A SICK BIRD

Birds provided with the correct nourishment and housing, free from fumes, vermin and drafts, will rarely become ill. If you take the time and trouble to do things right; your birds should thrive. Quite often, the duration of a bird's sickness is relatively short; therefore, if you do not treat the disease quickly, it might be too late. For this reason, it is important to understand their interaction with other birds and what constitutes their normal behavior.

If you observe, for example, that a bird quite suddenly is sitting in spots in the aviary that it normally avoids, you might take this as an indication that something is wrong. If it is making a bigger mess than usual with his foot, this can be a bad sign. If it seems to be sitting in a strange way, again, be alert.

Important note: Visual examination should be conducted at least ten (10) feet away from birds. Any closer may cause even stressed birds to assume "flight or fight" postures.

OFF ON THE WRONG FOOT

When a healthy bird is resting, it generally sits on just one foot; young parrots are exceptions, and so are various other pet birds (finches, canaries etc.). If your bird is resting on two feet (while closing one or both eyes) then it probably is not feeling 100% healthy.

A bird's plumage should be healthy and smooth, its eyes should be bright, and there should not be any dirt hanging from its feet or beak.

Misinterpreting "smooth" plumage can cause quite a few problems. When buying a bird, one generally stands very close to the cage; after all, you want to see what you are buying. However, a bird may pass the smooth plumage test (and you have to tell this to your customer!) and still not be a healthy bird. Observe the bird you plan to buy from a moderate distance, preferably in its own abode (if possible, not in a transportation or observation cage), and you will soon know if the bird is healthy or not.

Often, small indications imply that a bird is not entirely healthy. Never wait too long before taking action, such as trying to make sure that something is really wrong while waiting for more definite symptoms. It is better to act early in taking positive action than react too late; later, if you find that your diagnosis was incorrect, you have lost nothing except time. Being too careful is far better than being nonchalant. If you have doubts about a certain bird, carefully catch it and isolate it in a warm (86-88° F; 30-32° C) draft-free area. Since these, birds (like parrots and the larger parakeet species) do not like to be confined to small areas, give the convalescent a roomy flight, such as an attic or shed, if at all possible, where you can maintain a constant temperature.

High temperatures make birds thirsty, so they will want to drink more. This affords an ideal opportunity to add soluble antibiotics to their water that will not cause unpleasant side or aftereffects. Always ask your veterinarian about medication. Many such preparations will stimulate the various glands that give resistance to whatever ails the bird. In addition, fertility is promoted and the shine and color of the bird's plumage are improved. In fact, it is a good idea to add a few drops of these antibiotics to your birds' water every once in a while as a point of routine maintenance.

It is important to check the perches regularly for all kinds of bacteria and insects, since parasites are often the cause of avian illness. Make weekly inspections (every two weeks during the breeding season), being careful not to upset the birds, and you can avoid most illnesses.

Cleanliness is absolutely imperative! By playing close attention, you can determine whether parasites have gotten into your birds' plumage. If so, the feathers will have a brush-like appearance. Act immediately! Also, if your bird shows signs of losing weight, especially if the chest bone sticks out, or if the bird becomes overweight and has difficulty moving, immediately separate the bird for treatment.

LOOKING FOR TROUBLE

The sick bird's droppings are usually rather watery, and of an abnormal color. The last part of the intestine bulges slightly and empties into a cavity known as the cloaca. This cloaca is the only body opening for all waste products, sperm and eggs. Since the urine mixes with solid excretions, the feces will never look hard and dry, but on the other hand, the feces of a healthy bird are not thin or watery.

The digestive tract of a bird differs greatly from that of mammals. Birds must eat almost constantly. A parrot can starve if it has to do without food for 35-45 hours or more, and this is just as valid for a sick bird. Therefore, never withhold food from sick birds (unfortunately, this occurs all too often); try to make the pet bird eat, preferably it's favorite food. Many a sick bird did not die of illness, but rather of starvation!

Hence, you can tell if your parrot or other pet bird is ill by checking the cloacal (vent) opening. This can be checked without catching the bird. If the bottom part of a female bird's body is swollen, she is probably suffering from egg binding (see your veterinarian immediately!). If the feathers around the vent are soiled, diarrhea or another intestinal problem is present, but of course, it may be caused by a more serious disease. That is why every aviculturist must read as much literature as possible dealing with pet bird diseases.

After a bird has recovered from any illness, do not return it immediately to its regular quarters. The bird was in a higher temperature as part of its therapy, and to bring it back to a cage or aviary where the temperature is much cooler would be too much of a shock. Your recovered pet would soon be a patient again.

Let the temperature in the sick room drop gradually until it reaches the normal temperature of the aviary or room where the pet bird's regular cage is located. After that, wait still another few days before letting the bird go back. Choose a sunny day for this, rather than one that is wet and chilly.

Develop your own library on bird diseases. Although not a substitute for an avian veterinarian, you should be able to act as a very good "general practitioner".

Reprinted by Pretty Birds from Pet Dealer June, 1997 by Dr. Matthew M. Vriends

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